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While the climbers were getting the preliminary
work done on the wall; Saba, Nic and I went
off for a week to get animal footage. Before
we left the States, John Wilcox, the owner
of the company who sent us to Kenya (American
Adventure Productions) said "Animals,
animals, animals...".
We loaded our gear into Saba's trusty Land
Rover and traveled to a place that she has
come to know very well, the Save the Elephants
Camp in the Samburu Reserve. Although only
about 125 miles from Poi, it took us nearly
14 hours to make the trip. Often driving
in the dry riverbeds that make up most of
the "roads" in this part of Kenya.
Here we spent a week with the elephants and
other animals in this sanctioned area safe
from the greedy eyes of poachers. We would go out with Saba and the other researchers
in the camp, Anesmus and Henrick, and spend
the day looking for animals who are all but
concerned with our personal agendas. Before we got there, Saba told me I would
be seeing elephants unlike I ever had before,
and since I had only seen one up close on
a commercial shoot for the circus a few years
back, that wouldn't be hard. My time with
the ele's was one of the most rewarding experiences
of my travels so far. At times they would
walk right up to the truck only a few feet
away, and look you right in the eye. Sitting
there staring at this incredibly strong,
but gentle, creature I felt an understanding
in it's hypnotic gaze. The researchers have
come to know the ele's well, and have a name
for each one, and there are hundreds of them!
Nic and I were constantly amazed when they
would say "Oh look, there's Mandella,
my, he sure is looking well today". As well as the elephants we captured great
footage of baboons, crocodiles, leopards,
lions, giraffe, klipspringers, monkeys, snakes,
scorpions and birds to name a few.
Before we knew it the week was up and it
was time to head back to Poi and get to work
shooting the climbers. The members of the
camp threw a party the day before we left
and a goat was slaughtered and eaten in our
honor.
When we got back to Poi we started shooting
right away. It was now Christmas, and this
is when Paul got the leg infection I mentioned
earlier. The climbers had made much progress
while we were gone and were already about
half way up the wall. The days fell into
a routine now, we would wait out the sun
at the ridge camp and then head onto the
wall. The rock was extremely fragile in areas,
and if anyone was above you, the threat of
rockfall was more than present. There were
huge flakes that were just screaming for
you to touch them with your foot so they
could make the long dive to the ground and
take out anything in it's path. Todd took
some chalk and scribed "Death Flake"and "No, No!"on two of the more precariously placed ones. One day while Steve and I were at the base
having just rappelled off, we heard that
terrible word being screamed from above:"ROCK!!!" We could hear the humming of
the object propelling toward us at breakneck speed and all we could do
was huddle in a ball and wonder where it would hit. There are few more
helpless feelings I can think of at this time. The rock, about the size
of a football, came crashing through the trees about 20 yards away.
We made our way to a feature we named The
Third Eye. It was a huge hole in the wall
about 2/3 of the way up the route. It was
spotted from the ground and believed to be
large enough for a somewhat comfortable wall
camp; it turned out to be better than comfortable.
About 30 feet deep and 50 feet high with
a sloping floor, it was a great place to
get out of the sun and take a respite from
the strictly vertical world. The portaledges were deployed on the back
wall of the cave and a cache of water was
stocked. If it ever rained here this time
of year, it would be the worlds most perfect
place for a bivouac. Unfortunately, any mountain
located where it does rain often, would never
have one as plush as this.
Evidently we caused quite a stir in the valley
on the occasions in which we slept up in
The Third Eye. The villagers below were quite
amazed by the lights (our headlamps) moving
around high up on a mountain they have lived
under all of their lives. On one interview
with a Morani warrior, I asked him if he
had anything to ask us. With Saba translating,
he asked "Why do you come so far to
climb Poi, what is it that you are looking
for up there?" I could not give him
an answer he could understand. At first the villagers were skeptical of
us, especially the photo team. We intimidated
them with our cameras, and many would not
let us point them in their direction. After
a while, after spending time with them, they
grew more comfortable with us and even enjoyed
looking through the cameras. As if looking
for the answer to what it was we were doing
there.
About 500 feet above The Third Eye was another
terrific ledge system for us to venture onto.
About 40 feet wide and a couple hundred feet
long it served as our high camp on the wall.
As in the third eye, we were the first humans
to ever set foot on this lofty shelf. This
one was named the "Mzuri Sauna Ledge".
In Swahili, mzuri sana means 'very good',
and is a common reply. Someone will say "habari
yako"(how are you ), you reply "mzuri
sana, asanti sana", 'very good, thank
you'. In the sun the ledge was as hot as a sauna. From this ledge the summit was only a couple
hundred feet up, although there was still
some tricky climbing to get there. As it
started getting less vertical near the top,
there were more and more bushes and clumps
of grass. As Paul made his way up the last
pitch, he was climbing grass and dirt more
than rocks.
The summit of Poi is unlike any other mountain I have
stood atop. It has these green rolling hills, and huge trees sparsely
spaced. Where you might expect a chossy pile of rocks and boulders, there
are very few to speak of. We arrived at sunset and the golden hour
of light was upon us. With time only to shoot
a few photos and some video footage, we rappelled
down to the mzuri sauna ledge, pulling the
ropes behind us. We spent the next few days
stripping the wall of gear and getting shots
that were missing for the story. Before we
knew it, it was time to leave Poi, load up
the trucks and start the long drive back
to Nairobi.
We didn't have the pilot come back for us,
because when he dropped us off, he said that
the runway was too short to take off with
all of our gear. "But I'll give it a
shot" he said with a grin. Having been
off for so long, we opted to stay on the
ground....this time. |