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In a very remote part of Kenya, on the edge
of the Great Rift Valley, lies a mountain
that the locals call "Poi". It
is nestled deep in the Ndoto Mountains northeast
of the Matthews Range, about a 2 hour flight
from Nairobi. We arrived in Kenya on December
6, and would be once again spending Christmas
and New Years on the Dark Continent. After
spending a day supplying ourselves in Nairobi,
we loaded our gear on a small plane and headed
into the bush. Although it may only be a
2 hour flight, we would not see signs of
civilization until we returned there on January
10. Once you leave the vicinity of Nairobi,
there is no doubt about it, you're in Africa.
As we flew over the land we noticed how different
it was than West Africa, where the sands
of the Sahara seem to dominate the landscape
and the people who work it. Kenya is much
more lush and green, and although it still
has it's sand and dirt, the trees and shrubbery
seem to give it that "jungle"feel.
As we came in for a landing on the small
airstrip, we had to buzz a small herd of
camels that were loitering on it. After 2
tries the pilot was successful in clearing
the large, gangly beasts from the strip and
he gingerly set the plane down and rolled
to a halt.
The team consisted of four climbers: Steve
Bechtel, Scott Milton, Paul Piana and Todd
Skinner, and an equal number in the camera
crew: Nic Good, Bobby Model and I as videographers
and Sandra Studer as still photographer.
We were also lucky enough to have a young
lady named Saba Douglas Hamilton with us
as our guide and interpreter. Saba has lived
in Kenya all of her 29 years, her parents
Ian and Moria are two of the most famous
elephant activists in the world. I started
calling her Wonder Woman, because she never
ceased to amaze me with her natural bush-woman
instinct.
After landing we made our way to a small
group of cement structures in a place called
Ngurunit, and would spend the next few days
here sorting gear and finding a suitable
base camp at Poi, which was still 5 miles
away. All around were the Samburu, a native
people that have been living in this area
for thousands of years. As we passed their
manattas, small round dwellings made of sticks
and mud, they would wave and say "Jambo",
which is hello in Swahili (although they
spoke an entirely different language, Samburu).
The Samburu are pasturalists, and live mainly
on the goats and cows that they spend their
days herding to and from water, grasses and
shrubs. They are a gentle people, and other
than the occasional cattle raid on neighboring
tribes live a very peaceful existence at
the base of Poi, which they say translates
to mean "very tall mountain". The
Samburu would prove to be a valuable asset
to our team, and without their help, climbing
this mountain would have been impossible.
With help from the local villagers, we set
up our advanced base camp along the narrow
ridge leading to the proper base of Poi.
It was a dramatic campsite, with each side
of the rounded off, 30 foot wide ridge dropping
about 1500 feet to the valley below. The
climbers chose a line that went straight
up the east face, and work instantly began
to gain height on this wall, which we figured
was almost 2000 feet tall.
First, a trail was hacked through the thick
jungle leading to the base, mainly by the
sweat and toil of Steve and Scott. Besides
the red cobras, scorpions and babboons, other
hazards included a cactus that when cut,
would ooze a milky white substance that if
applied to the skin would burn like battery
acid. Scott, the eager scientist amongst
us, decided to conduct a test and put some
in his eye. Another plant , if brushed against
the skin, would render the infected area
numb for about an hour. As soon as possible, before the trail was
even near finished, work was started on the
wall to get the ropes up. On one outing,
Paul took a 40 foot fall and upon swinging
back in to meet the rock hit his knee. A
small puncture in it would eventually turn
into a full blown infection and force him
to leave for about a week and recover at
a local dispensary. Upon returning to the
States a month later Paul would find out
he actually cracked his kneecap on that fall.
One of the main cruxes of living on the ridge
was the fact that there was absolutely no
water to be found. In fact, the closest clean
water supply was back in Ngurunit, about
5 miles away. And so began the daily ritual
of supplying our team with its one true necessity,
water. Every morning, before sunrise, a Samburu
warrior would leave Ngurunit with a camel
loaded down with about 20 gallons of water.
He would take it to Base Camp, where our
cook Kamow would commence to boiling it and
pour it into 5 gallon water bags. Then more
warriors would put the bags on their backs
and make the three hour hike up the steep
slabs to the ridge and to our advanced base
camp. We would then treat it with bleach
before using it to drink and cook food. We
would alternate fifteen gallons one day,
and ten the next, and we would use every
drop of it. A strict ban was placed on bathing
with the precious liquid, other than washing
hands and cleaning off wounds. This ban lasted
for about 2 weeks, until none of us could
stand the smell of ourselves much less each
other. Even then a very minute amount was
used to bathe, about half a gallon.
The second crux was the heat. The sun would
hit the face every morning at about 7:00
am, a numbing wake-up call to us in our tents
which would soon be a collection of solar
ovens. We would all scramble for shade in
the clumps of small trees or under our makeshift
lean-to, and wait until about 1:00 pm when
the face would eventually go into shade and
you could actually start climbing. Even then,
the rock still radiated the heat that it
had soaked up like a sponge all morning. |